“My spring-summer ’24 womenswear assortment is about being within the second, about being conscious in each method—emotionally, politically, and artistically,” says Duro Olowu.
A look on the assortment looks like stepping right into a 400-level class on intention in clothes. Swaths of shades and completely clashing patterns dance over tailoring as technically exact as it’s fluid: Animal prints billow from the waist of a maxidress; pale yellow flowers are suspended on a kelly inexperienced swimsuit, whereas tribal print decorates the pants.
“I are inclined to gravitate in the direction of daring, vivid colours, however this assortment additionally options delicate but highly effective pastels and prints which can be without delay acquainted but novel to the wearer. My understanding of shade has at all times been instinctive. Every hue is a defining second within the selection the wearer makes to mirror how they wish to place themselves on the earth,” he says.
Duro Olowu SS24 Look 02Luis Monteiro, Courtesy of Duro Olowu.
The Nigerian-born designer, who spent childhood summers in Geneva and got here of age in Paris, studied legislation earlier than launching his eponymous label in 2004; an early hit was the “Duro Costume” that debuted (and rapidly bought out) at Barneys. Earlier than Olowu had even staged a runway present, the British Trend Awards dubbed him New Designer of the 12 months in 2005. The ladies of Olowu’s household, who at all times channeled energy and status of their look, served as his first and biggest inspiration, and alongside the way in which, he’s garnered loyal followers, from Michelle Obama to Solange Knowles. The lady he designs for is “directional but trend-free” and wears clothes that’s “an ode to individuality and attract,” he says. Olowu resides in West London, displaying his assortment throughout London Trend Week in an intimate presentation, and he doesn’t have a retail web site—a radical opt-out within the digital age.
In his London retailer, Olowu’s collections reside alongside vintage African and European textiles, James Baldwin and Zadie Smith first editions, and a fabulous assortment of up to date works by artists like Stanley Whitney, Lynette Yiadom-Boakye, and Marcel Dzama. Certainly, his eager eye for association extends to the artwork world.
Beneath, he shares his private favorites with VF, from uncommon books to robes match for a king.
Type File
DAILY UNIFORM: Cobalt inexperienced classic French workwear jacket, Duro Olowu Menswear rayon and silk shirt, and Christopher Nemeth denim black sew trousers. TAILOR: John Pearse, Meard Road, London. VINTAGE TREASURE: My massive assortment of vintage West African textiles— significantly the embroidered Yoruba robes of my father and grandfather. SHADES: Tom Ford. NECKWEAR: Turnbull & Asser navy silk twill polka-dot scarf. DRESS SHIRT: Customized Charvet. SOCKS: Inexperienced or blue Uniqlo socks. FOR WALKING: Okay.Jacques Homere handmade sandals.
Self-care
FACE WASH: Sisley Paris. COLOGNE: Indelebile by Frédéric Malle. SUNDAY RITUAL: Sleeping in. TO UNWIND: Visiting museum and gallery artwork exhibitions wherever I could also be. The “Ladies in Revolt!” present presently at Tate Britain in London is a triumph on many ranges. Additionally improbable, “Alaïa/Grès. Past Trend” at Fondation Azzedine Alaïa in Paris.
At Dwelling
RECENT ADDITION: Espresso desk by Max Schmidt, circa 1905 Vienna from Two Poems in London.SKETCHING: In notebooks I gather from all over the world. TO ILLUSTRATE: Faber-Castell graphite pencils and brush pens.SEATING: Pierre Guariche/A.R.P. chair from Demisch Danant. ON DISPLAY: Magdalene Odundo vessels.
For Pleasure
LOOKING AT: Portrait of Area, Close to Siwa, Egypt, 1937 by Lee Miller.READING: The Most Secret Reminiscence of Males by Mohamed Mbougar Sarr and Out of Place: A Memoir by Edward Mentioned. DOING: Searching for uncommon books. Tenderbooks or Kulik Selzer are my favourite bookshops in London. WATCHING: Heremakono (Ready for Happiness), directed by Abderrahmane Sissako, and La baie des anges (Bay of Angels), directed by Jacques Demy. LISTENING TO: Rufus and Chaka Khan.
The Menu
COMFORT FOOD: Nigerian jollof rice with dodo. DINNER RESERVATION: Maison François in London— served by essentially the most skilled and elegantly dressed workers.
